Phoenix Restaurants

Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana blessed by VPN Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana and Enoteca is now officially “certificate vera pizza Napoletana.” In English, that means the Scottsdale restaurant has been blessed by the Naples-based Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the globally accepted “disciplinaire” of the standards required to be an official Napoletana pizzeria.

That makes Pomo the first VPN-certified pizzeria in the Valley, and only the second in the state, next to the 4-year-old Vero Amore in Tucson, owned by Aric and Joshua Mussman. Pomo opened in March in the Borgata at Scottsdale Road and Lincoln Drive.

VPN regulators descended on the small bistro last week to inspect all equipment, ingredients and cooking technique, as outlined in an 11-page document that includes three pages of instructions for the pizza crust alone. Other requirement include using only a wood-burning brick oven (no gas, coal or electric), a special “fork” dough mixer instead of the common spiral mixer, and ingredients limited to Italian imported flour type 00, San Marzano regionally designated tomatoes and imported extra-virgin olive oil.

“Some people think that this is simply a certificate that you pay for,” said Pomo owner Stefano Fabbri. “But it’s a rigorous procedure, to ensure authenticity.”

Inspectors studied Pomo’s pizzamaker Matteo Schiavone in action, to see if the Naples-born “pizzaiolo” hand tossed and dressed each pizza in a clockwise direction as VPN mandates. The finished pies were put in the imported Acunto Forni oven, cooking in 90 seconds at least 905 degrees.

The inspector ultimately judged that the resulting pies were textbook VPN style, of a medium crust that’s thin but that bends and folds, touched with crisp char on the edges while soft and nearly wet in the center. In the authentic VPN recipe, Pomo’s margherita pie features a light wash of juicy tomatoes scattered with snowy blobs of certified mozzarella di bufala, extra-virgin olive oil, and fresh basil leaves lightly crisped by the flames.

Details: Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana and Enoteca, 6166 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale. 480-235-5822, pomopizzeria.com.


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